![]() ![]() In a good crimp, wire strands should protrude a minimum of 0.015 inch from the end of the crimp. It acts as a funnel for the wires and reduces the possibility of a sharp edge on the barrel cutting or nicking the conductors. The undisturbed portion of the conductor barrel nearest the insulation crimp is known as the bell mouth. If done correctly, the terminal becomes an extension of the wire. Good luck in your audio endeavours.During crimping, the applicator die presses around the conductor with enough force to deform both the wire and the barrel, creating a cold weld between the two parts and establishing gastight connection. A great read is he really knows his stuff and has laid it all out neat an concise for you. Ex: a crimp onto 12 gauge spec wire for MIL-T 7928 must hold at least 110lbs before coming off but by UL486A only has to hold 70 lbs before giving way…both quite strong when crimped correct. There’s a reason ABYC E-11, UL486A, DIN 41611, MIL-T 7928, and of course NASA STD 8739-4 specs all exist for crimp stregnth minimums. Strand to strand and strand to connector making 1 solid piece and preserving the sine waves integrity. A crimp done properly will cold weld the metal. ![]() The components on circuit boards and panels of course will be componen soldered but by the tone of this conversationeither sound overly audio educated experts. Will be done as possible as soldered joints fail when flexed repeatedly even by the tiniest of vibrations. There’s a reason even on my best gold plated crimps I use a dremel or a diamond file to remove the gold off the copper crimp before crimping it…but I’ll let you speculate as ty o why. They are resilient interactive and don’t oxidize. Gold is the standard yo plate wit and platinum is the top of the pyramid. In audio we crimp and solder where appropriate, and as to silver, there’s a reason why some of the best audio solder by Cardas only has ~ 4% silver. Silver plated crimps….come on…they’d oxidize and you’d have tons of measurable resistance, and quality of sound (both by oscilloscope and by ear). Which connection makes the most sense depends heavily on the specific size and type of wire as well as the application. There is much debate over the advantage and disadvantages between crimped and soldered connections. The strength and ease of use make them common for automotive and industrial uses. These connections are generally stronger than those created by barrel connectors. Since the wire can be laid into the connector as opposed to being threaded into it as with barrel connectors, this type of connector is easier to use in automated applications. A wire is cradled into the connector before it is then crimped close. Open barrel connectors are also aptly named as the “barrel” is spread open into a V or a U shape. This is perhaps the most commonly seen type of connector. With barrel type connectors the stranded wire is inserted into the cylindrical metal opening (hence, “barrel”) and then crimped. There are many different types of crimp connectors but the most common are barrel and open barrel. When done correctly, this connection is both mechanically sound and gas-tight. The crimp fitting is then compressed (crimped) around the wire with a pair of crimping pliers. Once the insulation is removed, the exposed wire is inserted into the connector. However, the length of insulation that needs to be removed is truly application specific and should be cross-referenced with manufacturer guidelines, especially in industrial use. as a general guideline for how much wire to strip, as this is fairly standard for residential electrical wiring. The first step in affixing a crimp connector is to use a wire stripper to remove the electrical insulation from the end of the stranded wire. ![]() Depending on the type, crimp connectors, sometimes called crimp terminals, can be terminated to different configurations of spade-foot connectors, wire splices and screw terminals. ![]() A crimp connector is a type of solderless electrical connector used for terminating stranded wire. ![]()
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